Experience history in a compelling way by spending a full day exploring three charming châteaux and a unique garden in the Périgord region in southwest France. These châteaux, on the banks of the Dordogne River, are some of the best in France and date to the 12th and 14th centuries. Touring them easily transports visitors back to pivotal times in the country’s history. They’re located just outside charming Sarlat-la-Canéda, which my husband and I drove to from Bordeaux (about 125 miles/200 km driving distance), having taken the high-speed TGV train from Paris to Bordeaux. Staying in Sarlat is a real treat and worth a few days’ visit. There’s plenty to experience in the area. Follow the plan below to make the most of your day visiting castles and gardens.
Two châteaux (Château de Beynac and Château de Castelnaud) were major defensive structures along the Dordogne River. One (Château des Milandes) was a restful retreat that now includes a furnished mansion featuring grand gardens and walking trails and a unique performance featuring birds of prey. It also has displays and artifacts from when American-born French entertainer Josephine Baker lived here in the 1900s. All provide lovely views of the Dordogne River valley. Finally, visiting Marqueyssac Gardens — close to all three châteaux — is an excellent way to enjoy nature, that is, the gardens themselves and another magnificent view of the surrounding countryside.
My husband and I so enjoyed our visits to each of these properties and marveled at walking in the footsteps of various militia, aristocrats, and celebrities who used these properties at various times over the centuries.
How to Plan Your Day
This is a full day of sightseeing, but what a day it’ll be! This itinerary assumes you are driving. All four sites are within 10 miles/16 km of the small town of Sarlat-la-Canéda, a great home base for exploring the area. Also, they all have cafés and restaurants, so it’s easy to recharge during the day without having to hunt for a place along your drive. Check online before visiting to learn about special exhibits and events – and their schedules – for when you plan to visit.
- Arrive at Château des Milandes when it opens. (This château opens before the others, so you can make the most of your time if you begin the day here.) Tour this furnished château, learn about the famous American-born French Josephine Baker, watch the birds of prey demonstration, visit the chapel, and view the gardens. (Based on the birds of prey demonstration schedule, you might have time to visit the gardens or chapel before it begins.) Conclude your visit with lunch at the onsite restaurant – or wait to eat at the next stop.
- Drive to Château de Castelnaud. If you didn’t eat lunch at Château des Milandes, choose one of the cafés in this little hamlet before touring the château. We enjoyed La Cour De Récré, a café with great food and attentive service. ( It’s between the parking lot and the château.) Tour Château de Castelnaud, view and learn about medieval-era weaponry, and enjoy the outdoor vistas. TIP: If you plan to visit Marqueyssac Gardens, purchase a combo ticket when buying your ticket to Château de Castelnaud.
- Drive to Marqueyssac Gardens to stroll through the manor house and the 0.5 mile/0.8 km trail to the Belvedere to take in another great view of the Dordogne River Valley. Marvel at the hand-trimmed boxwoods – over 100,000 of them! There’s a café here – and in the summer months, their creperie and sandwich shop are open.
- Drive to Château de Beynac, following the “Château de Beynac” signs for parking at the top of the hill, and take a short walk to the château’s entrance. (If you park in the town of Beynac below, you’ll have a steep 15-minute walk up to the château.) View the special exhibit on the château’s history and take a self-guided stroll through the castle and property. Savor the views of the Dordogne River valley. There are dining options near the castle, including an ice cream shop. Extend your visit by visiting the lower town of Beynac to window shop and, perhaps, enjoy dinner.
Learn more about the four sites that are listed in alphabetical order below.
1. Château de Beynac
24220 Beynac-et-Cazenac (7.5 miles/12 km from Sarlat) | 05 53 29 50 40 | website
Built over time from the 12th to 17th centuries, this imposing structure atop a limestone cliff did its job of projecting power and wealth and deterring foes. This was especially evident during the Hundred Years War, which pitted the French, who claimed the land on one side of the Dordogne River, against the English on the opposite river bank. Beynac alternated between French and English control in its early centuries. Later, it was overhauled and expanded, including the Renaissance-style stairs in the 17th century. Thanks to Lucien Grosso, who purchased it – then a rundown property – in 1962, the Château de Beynac was renovated. Improvements have continued since then to restore its medieval features.
Key Location
Strategically situated, the château was a secure place for villagers to gather when the area was threatened or attacked. It was also a place for the lords to host lavish events that included musicians, entertainers, and feasts. In the Middle Ages, the lords benefited financially from the castle’s location as they collected fees from boats passing on the Dordogne River below and from people wishing to cross the river.
Middle Ages History
One important person in the life of Château de Beynac was Eleanor of Aquitaine (1122-1204), who was married first to Louis VII of France and then became the Queen of France. Following the annulment of that marriage, she wed Henry II of England and became Queen of England. Thus, in the mid-12th century, Beynac became English territory. Eleanor and Henry’s third son, Richard, became known as Richard the Lionhearted, a famed military leader who inherited the English throne upon his father’s death. (Though he was the third born, his older brothers predeceased his father.) Richard the Lionhearted lived at Château de Beynac for ten years before he died in 1199.
Visiting Today
The château has an exhibit of Eleanor of Aquitaine and Richard the Lionhearted. The main structure is a substantial square-shaped building with watch towers surrounded by double walls and moats. There’s an interior path for visitors to follow through the partially furnished château rooms, including the Keep, the State Room, the chapel, the kitchen, and the furnished bedroom thought to have been occupied by Richard the Lionhearted.
Château de Beynac Visitor Info and Tips
- The château is open year-round from 10:00 am to 7:00 pm, with the last entrance at 6:00 pm.
- You can access the château from the lower town, but it’s quicker to do so from the top of the town. Follow the “Château de Beynac” signs for parking at the top of the hill, a short walk to the château’s entrance.
- Admission fees (2023): Adults – €11.50, Children (11-16 years) – €7, Younger children are free.
- Don’t expect all staff to speak English, so have a translation app — like Google Translate — handy.
- This is a self-guided tour; scan QR codes to learn more about each space. You can use Google Translate to translate the French informational signs found in each area.
- Check the Château de Beynac website for updated admission hours, fees, and other information.
2. Château de Castelnaud
24250 Castelnaud-la-Chapelle (about 8 miles/13 km from Sarlat) | 05 53 31 30 | website
Built in the early 13th century across the Dordogne River from Château de Beynac, Château de Castelnaud changed hands between English and French several times through its first few centuries of existence. Then, in 1442, French forces captured the château for good. During its history, the château was burned and rebuilt. After the French Revolution in 1789, it fell into disrepair and was used as a stone quarry. Since the 1960s, the Roussillon family has owned, maintained, and operated the property.
Visiting Today
Today, you can visit several areas, including the artillery tower, the keep, the kitchen, and the weapons room. Along the way, you’ll learn about weapons and the changing military technologies throughout the centuries. On some days, costumed historical interpreters bring the château to life.
Château de Castelnaud Visitor Info and Tips
- The château is open year-round with extended hours from April through October.
- Guided and self-guided tours are available.
- Admission fees (2023): Adults – €12.90, Children (10-17 years) – €6.50, Younger children are free.
- For a slightly higher fee, admission includes a visit to Marqueyssac Gardens.
- Don’t expect all staff to speak English, so have a translation app — like Google Translate — handy.
- There are special events and demonstrations throughout the year.
- Check the website for updated information about all the happenings at the chateau.
3. Château des Milandes
24250 Castelnaud-la-Chapelle (10 miles/16 km from Sarlat) | 05 53 59 31 21 | website
Besides the beautiful views from this château, it’s steeped with some fascinating history from the entertainment and political worlds. The château was built in 1489 by the French aristocratic François de Caumont for his wife, who disdained the family’s Château de Castelnaud as an unsuitable place to live. Due to political and religious tensions, the château changed owners over the following centuries and, at times, was abandoned. In 1900, French industrialist Charles Claverie purchased the property, renovating and expanding the structure.
The Josephine Baker Era
In 1947, American-born French entertainer and activist Josephine Baker (1906-1975) acquired the château after renting it for years. Besides her vocation as a singer and dancer, she worked for the French Resistance during World War II, benefiting from her career as an entertainer who could travel easily without suspicion. On a personal note, in 1955, she began adopting children in need from all parts of the globe, including Korea, Columbia, Japan, Finland, Ivory Coast, Venezuela, Morocco, and France. She dubbed the clan, which totaled twelve, “the Rainbow Tribe,” as they represented various countries, cultures, and religions.
Visiting Today
Most of the Château des Milandes is furnished to represent the time Josephine Baker lived there. Walking through the castle, you’ll see some of her most noteworthy costumes, hear some of her music, see how she lived with her family, and learn more about her time in the French Resistance.
Besides the castle, look for:
- a separate chapel with representations of and information about its use.
- beautiful gardens and walking paths in the wooded area.
- a birds of prey demonstration held several times a day from April through October.
- a brasserie (located in the old winery) serving salads, sandwiches, burgers, and desserts.
- a gift shop.
Château des Milandes Visitor Info and Tips
- The château is open from February through December
- The birds of prey demonstrations are available from late March through October.
- An audio guide is included in admission.
- Admission fees (2023): Adults – €13.50, Children (5-16 years) – €9, younger children are free.
- Don’t expect all staff to speak English, so have a translation app — like Google Translate — handy.
- The brasserie is open from April through October.
- Photographs are prohibited inside the château.
- Animals, except service dogs, are not allowed on the grounds.
- Check the website for updated information about all the happenings at the chateau.
- Expect to spend 45-60 minutes to tour the castle, 15-30 minutes to tour the chapel, and 30 minutes for the raptor performance. Check online before your visit for the times of the birds of prey demonstration.
4. Marqueyssac Gardens
Les Jardins de Marqueyssac 24220 Vézac | 05 53 31 36 36 | website
In the same area as these three châteaux are Marqueyssac Gardens (or Les Jardins de Marqueyssac), a delightful destination for a bit more history (and a walk through a 19th-century home) and uniquely manicured gardens. It’s also a relaxing visual break from touring towering stone structures! Marqueyssac Gardens are a French National Historical Monument and the most visited gardens in the Périgord, this region in France. The focus is on boxwoods – about 150,000 of them! – that have been trimmed by hand. Walking trails from the home take visitors to the Belvedere, which has sensational panoramic views of the Dordogne River as well as well-known area châteaux (and villages) such as Beynac, Castelnaud, Domme, andRoque-Gageac.
Marqueyssac Garden Visitor Info and Tips
- The gardens are open every day.
- Admission fees vary depending on the time of year. From April through mid-November (2023): Adults: €12,90; Children 10-17 years old: €6.50; younger children are free.
- Choose between a self-guided tour and a guided tour.
- For a slightly higher fee, admission includes a visit to Château de Castelnaud.
- A 150 million-year-old Allosaurus dinosaur skeleton is on display as you enter the grounds (after paying admission).
- Plan to walk to the Belvedere, “le Belvédère,” (about 0.5 miles/800 meters from the château) to enjoy the fantastic views, including iconic villages (and châteaux) as Beynac, Castelnaud, La Roque-Gageac, and Domme.
- Walking through the decorated home is included in admission.
- The restaurant and tea room are open from February through October. There’s also a creperie and a sandwich shop on the grounds open during the summer.
- There’s a children’s play area.
- Picnic table areas are located by the gift shop and close to the children’s play area.
- Leashed dogs are welcome.
- A small shuttle helps visitors travel to/from the Great Walk and the central area. (This was a welcome treat when we were heading back from the Belvedere when it had just started raining.)
- There’s a comprehensive gift shop with plenty of tempting items focused on outdoor living and gardening.
- There is an app with a map of the property and other information.
Map of the 3 French Châteaux
Related Articles
- Best Apps and Websites for Savvy Travelers
- Expert Tips for Traveling to Europe for More Fun, Less Stress
- Exploring France: Normandy, Brittany, Provence, and Paris
- French High-Speed Trains: Tips for Your First TGV Ride
- Google Translate Guide for Travelers
- Top 10 Tips for Driving in Europe
- Top 10 Tips for Renting a Car in Europe
- Travel Planning Timeline
Final Thoughts
One of the main reasons we came to the Périgord area was to visit the châteaux. Because each of the three has a different focus, each destination was a treat. There was so much to take in at each property. And experiencing Marqueyssac Gardens was a delightful bonus. The vast views of the Dordogne River and surrounding countryside from all four properties were magnificent.
Check the hours of each place you want to visit to plan the most efficient way to see the four properties. When we visited, we stayed in charming Sarlat. It made the most sense for us to begin at Château des Milandes because it opened before the other châteaux.
Comments?
Feel free to share your experiences visiting châteaux near Sarlat and/or suggestions for other places to visit and things to do in the area. Your ideas could be helpful to other travelers. Thanks! 🙂
