The Dordogne River valley in Southwest France is rich with historical sites and breathtaking landscapes. Perfect spots to visit in the area include centuries-old châteaux, well-manicured gardens, ancient cave art, a centuries-old religious community, the Dordogne River for canoeing and kayaking fun, and a unique 19th-century farming settlement. My husband and I were captivated by the wealth of experiences in the area. We lingered at several châteaux to savor the stunning views of the Dordogne River and the surrounding countryside. We stayed in lovely medieval Sarlat, using this charming town as our home base while exploring the region. A map, along with the top sites and experiences, are listed below.
1. Cave Art at Lascaux IV
About 15 miles/25 km north of Sarlat – in Montignac
Cave art dating back 20,000 years was found in this area of France in the mid-20th century. The best place to view cave art and learn more about its origins is the International Center for Cave Art in Lascaux. It’s fascinating to walk through the “rooms” in the cave and realize that the paintings on the walls were made millennia ago with rudimentary tools and dyes. The way those early artists represented animals (including horses, deer, bison, and cattle) and showed their movement is thought-provoking and something to see. It’s a large complex that offers guided tours (most in French, some in English – so check online before you visit). You’ll walk through a “cave” that’s a complete replica of the original (that’s now off-limits to visitors to preserve its condition).
Also on site are a theater, an interactive gallery, a gift shop, and a café. If you’re approaching Sarlat from its north, you could stop at Lascaux IV before reaching Sarlat. (We drove from Bordeaux (about 130 miles/210 km away west of Sarlat) along A89, visited Lascaux IV, and continued to Sarlat.) Read more about the cave art at Lascaux IV in my article about the International Center for Cave Art.
2. Château de Beynac
About 8 miles/12 km southwest of Sarlat – in Beynac
Perched upon a cliff, Château de Beynac overlooks the town of Beynac as well as the Dordogne River. This is one of several châteaux I recommend visiting to gain an understanding of those who lived here during the Middle Ages and beyond. When visiting the château, you’ll learn how it flip-flopped between French and English control. Part of the reason for this is that Eleanor of Aquitaine (1122-1204) was first married to the French king and then to the English king. There’s a detailed exhibit on the history of the château onsite. As you walk through on a self-guided tour, you’ll read more about each space on the informational displays. Read more about the Château de Beynac in my article about area châteaux and gardens.
3. Château de Castelnaud
About 8 miles/13 km southwest of Sarlat – in Castelnaud-la-Chapelle
Nearby is the Château de Castelnaud, which today displays a treasure trove of weaponry used through the ages. On a self-guided tour, you’ll learn about the technological advancements in warfare tools and techniques along the way. The château hosts special events during the year. Sometimes, there are costumed historical interpreters demonstrating life long ago at the château. From the parking area, you’ll pass several cafés as you walk to the château. Like the Château de Beynac, the views from the Château de Castelnaud are breathtaking. Read more about the Château de Beynac in my article about area châteaux and gardens.
4. Château des Milandes
About 11 miles/18 km southwest of Sarlat – in Castelnaud-la-Chapelle
Although Château des Milandes was built in the 15th century, it’s probably best known for being the home of American-born French entertainer Josephine Baker, who also worked in the French Resistance during World War II. It’s furnished to reflect her life and career. Visit the home on a self-guided tour. Outside are well-manicured gardens, walking paths, a chapel, and an entertaining birds of prey demonstration. Read more about the Château des Milandes in my article about area châteaux and gardens.
5. Dordogne River Canoeing and Kayaking
Canoe or kayak along the Dordogne River, and you’ll be enjoying some peaceful relaxation, views of châteaux perched high above the river banks, and opportunities to stop by villages like picturesque Domme and La Roque Gageac that hug the coastline. Also, there are several small beaches along the way where you can pull up your canoe or kayak, rest with a picnic lunch you brought, or walk to a village for a meal or window shopping. Expect to spend half to a full day on the river if you plan to do this.
The Dordogne River is accessible to just about everyone. No dangerous rapids to be concerned about. The only real change will be river levels that provide either a lazy (low water levels) or more brisk journey (high water levels) along the water.
Tips/Info for Canoeing or Kayaking on the Dordogne River
- Most canoe and kayak rental companies run shuttle buses, so you can park at their buildings/offices and get driven to a starting point upstream or leave from their building/office and get picked up at a predetermined time for a ride back to the starting point – and your car. There are several options for the length of the trip. Search online for canoe rental places along the river, including in Vitrac and Beynac, to get an idea of your options.
- Some canoe and kayak rental outfits provide waterproof bins to store belongings and/or waterproof pouches for phones.
- If planning to canoe or kayak, plan to wear your swimsuit (yes, you can swim in the river), a towel, sunscreen, hat, water, water shoes, or shoes you don’t mind getting wet (when getting in or out of the vessel). Plus, you’ll want your smartphone for pictures, snacks, and/or a picnic lunch.
6. Marqueyssac Gardens
About 7 miles/11 km southwest of Sarlat – in Vézac
A unique garden layout, walking trails, and magnificent panoramic views over the Dordogne River and landscape await visitors at Marqueyssac Gardens (Les Jardins de Marqueyssac). The region has other lovely gardens, but this one is special. Over 15,000 hand-trimmed boxwoods and several trails lead visitors to the Belvedere, the lookout. Marqueyssac Gardens is a French National Historical Monument and the most visited garden in the Périgord, this region in France. In addition to the gardens, there is a 19th-century château, several dining options, and a large gift shop geared to outdoor lovers. Read more about Marqueyssac Gardens in my article about area châteaux and gardens. If visiting the Château de Castelnaud, you can get a combination ticket with Marqueyssac Gardens.
7. Rocamadour
About 31 miles/50 km east of Sarlat – in Rocamadour
Rocamadour is a cliff-top village known for its historical sites, religious sanctuaries, and monastic buildings on three levels. It has drawn pilgrims from all over the world for centuries. Today, visitors can visit the various churches as well as the town below, which is chockful of restaurants, cafés, and souvenir shops. In late September, there’s usually a hot air balloon festival in the area, so onlookers at Rocamadour can see them floating over the river gorge.
8. Stone Huts at Cabanes du Breuil
About 6 miles/10 km west of Sarlat – in Saint-André-d’Allas
Monks and others used this small complex of dry stone huts and land for agricultural purposes. They are thought to have originated in the 19th century. The Cabanes du Breuil structures are unique because their walls and roofs are formed from stones without mortar. What you see today are recreations of earlier structures. Expect to spend about 45 minutes here. This is a good spot to visit if you have little free time in your schedule and don’t know how to spend it.
Map of Sarlat Region
Tips for Visiting the Sarlat Region
- Driving is the best way to explore Sarlat and its surrounding region. Expect some narrow, winding roads in the countryside. Your best bet is to use a GPS app (like Google Maps or Waze) to navigate to your destination.
- Expect some cobblestone streets in the villages, some on inclines that can get slippery in wet weather.
- The towns and villages of Sarlat, along with Beynac, Castelnaud, Domme, and La Roque Gageac (all mentioned in this article), have several dining options, including cafés and restaurants.
- Check the days and times of operation for the places you plan to visit. If taking a guided tour – like at the International Center for Cave Art in Lascaux – search for a tour in English.
- Search online for restaurants (e.g., TripAdvisor, Yelp) that appeal to your palate so you find the right ones to match your interests – and will be open the day you visit.
- Plan a Saturday visit to Sarlat – if you’re not staying in town – to experience the Saturday morning market that is set up on the streets of the town’s medieval center.
- If you’re looking for a home base while visiting the area, consider the beautiful medieval Sarlat and plan day trips to explore the countryside with its charming châteaux, villages, and lovely Dordogne river views.
- Visit Sarlat’s TI (Tourist Information) office – at 3, Rue Tourny – for helpful advice from the staff, along with maps and guidebooks to the region’s highlights.
- Do not be surprised if some shopkeepers or restaurant staff don’t speak English as this region is not as touristed as others like Paris, Bordeaux, or Lyon. Come prepared with a pleasant “Bonjour!” or “Bonsoir” (“Good Day” and “Good Evening”) and working knowledge of translation apps like Google Translate. Using these helpful apps will be your friend: they enable you to speak or type in your question in English, ask for a translation, and then show the other person your screen to read the translation. Also, when you’re touring a place (like Château de Beynac) or eating out, you can have the translation app scan the information or menu and then offer up a translation for you.
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Final Thoughts
My husband and I traveled to southwest France as part of a larger European itinerary. I fell in love with Sarlat and enjoyed staying in our short-term apartment rental there. Each morning, we woke up and set off on the day’s adventure. After a day out, we always enjoyed coming “home” to our Sarlat apartment at the end of the day.
My Top Picks
If you want to do everything in this article, plan to stay four full days in Sarlat and drive to the places that interest you. If I had to pick my favorite experiences, they would be the:
- three chateaux and Marqueyssac Gardens that we visited in one entire fun-filled day,
- the International Center for Cave Art in Lascaux, and
- staying in and getting to know Sarlat – including the inviting Saturday morning market. After concluding our market day shopping, we had quite a charcuterie spread at our apartment that lasted more than one meal.
Comments?
Feel free to share your experiences visiting Sarlat and/or suggestions for other places to visit and things to do in the area. Your ideas could be helpful to other travelers. Thanks! 🙂
