Pittsburgh and western Pennsylvania have a rich history and a variety of attractive sites that draw visitors interested in exploring this corner of the Keystone State. There are several places you don’t want to miss when visiting the region, including historic sites (including some forts dating to the French and Indian War); museums rich with exhibits highlighting histories of industrial innovation and production, culture, sports, and more; two homes designed by Frank Lloyd Wright; miles of hiking and biking trails to discover; waterfalls and other scenic sights; plus the Flight 93 Memorial. The sites, along with the amazing restaurants and shops, all blend to make a trip to this area quite appealing.
My husband spent a week exploring the best of Pittsburgh (3 days) and then drove to other fascinating sites (4 days). This article highlights the area and shares our itinerary. It blends history with art, architecture, and scenic Ohiopyle State Park.
The Area’s Place in History
The French and Indian War (1754-1763) started in western Pennsylvania. As a result, several sites in the area relate to it. The war was a North American conflict between the French (who then controlled much of eastern Canada) and the British (who ruled the American colonies). Each empire wanted control of what is now Pittsburgh because of its strategic location at the convergence of three rivers (Allegheny, Ohio, and Monongahela).
Pittsburgh
What attracts you to Pittsburgh? History? Sports? Cultural activities? Visiting a student at one of the city’s prestigious universities? The second most populous city in Pennsylvania (after Philadelphia) draws many travelers for a variety of reasons. Needless to say, there’s too much to do and see in one trip (unless you have a few weeks to spend here!). This article highlights some places that should be at the top of everyone’s list when visiting Pittsburgh. They’ll complement the other must-sees on your list.
You can drive around the city on your own, of course. But if you want a good overview of the city and to visit key sites, you may want to consider riding the Pittsburgh Tour Company Hop-On Hop-Off double-decker bus. It stops at 21 locations and offers interesting commentary along the way. My husband and I used the bus and found it convenient; it beats driving to each place on our list and then hunting for parking.
Getting Around: Pittsburgh’s Riverside Trail
The extensive 24-mile Three Rivers Heritage Trail is a paved riverside path that connects many popular spots. (Check out the Three Rivers Heritage Trail map if you want to explore the riverside locales on foot or by bike. Local bike shops offer rentals.)
Getting Around: The Great Allegheny Passage
If hiking or biking is your thing, you might want to explore the Great Allegheny Passage (GAP), which runs from Pittsburgh to Cumberland, Maryland. You can jump on the GAP in several places in the area. The GAP website has interactive maps to help you plan your trek. Check out bike rental companies if you want to ride the GAP during your free time.
Mount Washington (Pittsburgh)
Views of Pittsburgh from the top of Mount Washington are sweeping. This steep hill sits on the south bank of the Monongahela River and offers several overlooks to soak in views of the City of Bridges. (Pittsburgh has over 400 bridges!) Mount Washington also has several restaurants.
Pittsburgh’s Funiculars
Access the vistas from Mount Washington via one of two funiculars: the Monongahela Incline or the Duquesne Incline. A third option is to drive up, park along Grandview Avenue, and walk to the various overlooks. The inclines were built in the 19th century to help laborers (mostly German immigrants) who worked in the flatter land below but lived high above on this hilltop. In the 1860s, Pittsburgh’s industries had a high demand for labor, but the city lacked housing; as a result, many laborers lived on Mount Washington.
The two inclines were built in the 1870s and were listed on the U.S. National Register of Historic Places in the 1970s. Imagine how many steps it took to climb up after a long day’s work before the funiculars were built!
John Heinz History Center (Pittsburgh)
This excellent museum covers a lot of history, including the French and Indian War; innovations from the Pittsburgh region that made huge contributions to America’s economic, medical, and entertainment realms; industrial history that included Pittsburgh behemoths like H.J. Heinz, Westinghouse, Alcoa, and Gulf; western Pennsylvania sports (e.g., Steelers, Penguins, and Pirates); and entertainment (e.g., the growth of jazz, Mr. Rogers Neighborhood). Formally known as the Senator John Heinz History Center, this six-floor museum is an affiliate of the Smithsonian Institution.
A Focus on Progress
The John Heinz History Center offers interesting information, exhibits, and artifacts. Although many exhibits focus on Pittsburgh, they also reflect the innovation and growth of the U.S. as a whole. For example, a display about George Westinghouse explains how his 1869 invention of the train air brake allowed trains to stop safely. Before this invention, a railroad worker had to jump along the tops of speeding train cars and crank each train car’s wheels to apply its brakes. Safer trains quickly spurred progress in transporting products, people, and information across the country.
The Heinz exhibit goes far beyond the company’s flagship products, like ketchup and Heinz 57 sauce, to show that the Heinz Company made significant investments, including the development of seeds for tomato and cucumber varieties that would be used for ketchup and pickles, the development of unique glass bottles, and the distribution of products. It’s essentially a profile of a company that successfully managed its raw materials, championed quality control in manufacturing, marketed its product to attract more buyers, and established a strong distribution strategy to get its products into consumers’ homes. Just 17 years after its inception in 1869, the Heinz Company grew to become an international firm.
Visiting the Heinz History Center
Plan on spending several hours at the Heinz History Center. There are many interesting things to see and lots of information to soak in. When my husband and I visited, we arrived when the museum opened and spent a few hours there, took a break and walked to a nearby restaurant for lunch, and returned to the museum in the afternoon – refreshed and reenergized – to continue enjoying the exhibits. The museum is on a trolley stop for the Hop On, Hop Off bus and is across the street from a Hampton Inn (where we stayed). Location: 1212 Smallman Street, Pittsburgh (in the Strip District)
Point State Park (Pittsburgh)
Many people enjoy gathering at the 36-acre Point State Park because it’s at the intersection of Pittsburgh’s three rivers. Point State Park is dog-friendly and features a large fountain (where people like to lounge and take in the sights) and an expansive grassy area. From here, you can peer over the water to Heinz Field (where the Pittsburgh Steelers play) and PNC Park (home of the Pittsburgh Pirates) on the opposite bank. The paved Three Rivers Heritage Trail connects Point State Park to many other Pittsburgh sites.
Point State Park is a major draw because of its prime riverside location. It was also the site of two 18th-century forts from the French and Indian War: Fort Duquesne and Fort Pitt.
Fort Duquesne
The French built Fort Duquesne in 1754 and commanded it during the French and Indian War. Later, the French abandoned it in 1758 as British forces advanced and attacked it. Then, French Canadians fled and set fire to the fort. No ruins of the fort remain today, but Point State Park now outlines its original perimeter in granite.
Fort Pitt
The British built Fort Pitt in the late 1750s during the French and Indian War. Today, the Fort Pitt Museum chronicles the causes, events, and aftermath of the French and Indian War at the location of the original Fort Pitt (which no longer exists). The museum adeptly describes the varying interests of the three involved parties (the French, the British, and the Native Americans), all eyeing dominance of the fertile region and strategic location at what was once the edge of the frontier. It also has exhibits on the American Revolution and Pittsburgh’s early days. Outside the museum sits the Block House, an original building dating to 1764 that was once part of Fort Pitt. The John Heinz History Center (mentioned earlier in this article) operates the Fort Pitt Museum. Location: Point State Park, 601 Commonwealth Place, Pittsburgh
Randyland (Pittsburgh)
Randyland is an off-the-beaten-track, whimsical outdoor space north of the Allegheny River, where you’ll find an explosion of colorful art made from everyday objects like mannequins, lawn furniture, and mirrors. Randyland isn’t a major attraction, but it’s a fun place to stop by if you have time and are in the area. After spending a lot of time soaking up history at museums, I found a visit to Randyland a welcome break. Location: 1501 Arch Street, Pittsburgh
NOTE: The following attractions are south and east of Pittsburgh in southwestern Pennsylvania.
Braddock’s Battlefield History Center
Ten miles southeast of downtown Pittsburgh is another site, Braddock’s Battlefield History Center, which profiles the Battle of the Monongahela on July 9, 1755, at the site of that French and Indian War conflict. Learn about this pivotal battle and its lasting impact on all involved, including the French, English, and their respective allies. 609 Sixth Street, North Braddock, PA
Friendship Hill National Historic Site (Point Marion)
Located in what was once the edge of America’s frontier is the home of an influential man, Swiss-born Albert Gallatin, who served his adopted country, just in its infancy, in several critical capacities. Gallatin served as Secretary of the Treasury under Thomas Jefferson and James Madison. Also, Gallatin was involved in several significant events of the day, including the Whiskey Rebellion, the Louisiana Purchase, and the Lewis and Clark Expedition. When Gallatin built the house in the 1780s, he named it Friendship Hill.
Most rooms in the house are minimally furnished. Outside, the grounds offer 10 miles of dog-friendly trails through woods and meadows, plus a bluff overlooking the Monongahela River. Enjoy walks and hikes from sunrise to sunset; keep in mind that the grounds are accessible at times when the house is not. Near the large parking lot sit a pavilion, picnic area, and restrooms. Location: 223 New Geneva Road, Point Marion. Friendship Hill is 70 miles south of Pittsburgh.
Fort Necessity (Farmington)
Fort Necessity was the site of a skirmish between French and British militias in July 1754 that helped to mark the dawn of the French and Indian War. It also left a blemish on George Washington’s legacy. At the time, Washington was a young man in the Virginia militia, serving as a colonel.
Just over 50 feet in diameter, the circular fort was built by George Washington’s men in the Great Meadows, a clearing in the forest that occurred naturally in the terrain. This low-lying area, surrounded by trees, provided a place for troops to live, livestock to graze, and supplies to be stored. They cut and split white oak trees lengthwise to create the posts that formed the fort’s perimeter. Inside, they built a small wooden building to store supplies. Outside the fort were trenches used to construct a rectangular redoubt of earth and logs, an area behind which soldiers would try to defend themselves if attacked.
What Happened at Fort Necessity
In early July 1754, 22-year-old George Washington commanded close to 400 men here. (The number of men under Washington swelled after the death of General Braddock, who had been in command of many of them and had been injured in a previous battle. The French and their allied Native Americans attacked the British at Fort Necessity as retaliation for the British raid on them just over a month earlier. (You can visit that site at Jumonville Glen, mentioned later in this article, a short drive away.)
The French used the treeline at Fort Necessity to their advantage and surrounded Washington and his troops. The battle took place on July 3, 1754—a day when rain poured down. The ground was muddy. Soldiers were drenched. Many of the British troops’ muskets misfired because of the dampness. And the French soldiers were firing from the tree line – at a distance, musket fire could successfully reach its targets at Fort Necessity. It quickly became clear that Washington’s regiments had no chance of victory.
George Washington’s Surrender
As it turned out, Washington ultimately relented and accepted France’s offer to surrender and, under those terms, he and his men could leave the area with honor. Washington signed the surrender document, written in French. Because he did not read French, Washington didn’t realize that, by signing the document, he was admitting guilt for assassinating Joseph Coulon de Jumonville, a French military commander, in the previous clash in May. (That episode is seen as the spark that ignited the French and Indian War.) This was the first and only time Washington surrendered in his military career.
Visiting Fort Necessity
About a 90-minute drive from Pittsburgh and located right on Route 40, “(The National Road” or “The National Pike”), Fort Necessity has a helpful visitor center with informative displays. Walk along the short path outside, and you’ll see the recreation of Fort Necessity. What you see today was constructed using information gathered from extensive archaeological findings in the first half of the 1900s. Be sure to stop by the nearby Mount Washington Tavern, Braddock’s Grave, and Jumonville Glen after visiting Fort Necessity. The National Park Service operates all the sites. More information on them is below.
Although not large, Fort Necessity is definitely worth a visit. While here, you will undoubtedly put yourself in the shoes of all sides in the conflict (the French and the British – as well as the Native Americans, some who supported the French, and others who supported the British). Just imagine what July 3, 1754, was like for all of them. Location: National Pike, Farmington. 70 miles southeast of Pittsburgh, 25 miles east of Friendship Hill National Historic Site.
Mount Washington Tavern (Farmington)
A short walk away from Fort Necessity is the Mount Washington Tavern, built in the 1830s, that served as a rest stop for stagecoach passengers. Today, it’s furnished as it might have been then, with a bar room for men on one side of the entrance hall and a parlor room for women and children on the other. A large table dominates the dining room where travelers were served family style. Upstairs are bedrooms – some for men; others for women and children. What makes this visit interesting is seeing the different spaces furnished appropriately for the time period, with informational signs that provide context for what is displayed. Location: Route 40/National Pike, Farmington. It’s a .6-mile drive from the Fort Necessity visitor center on the park’s interior road.
Braddock’s Grave (Farmington)
One mile west of Fort Necessity is Braddock’s Grave: the burial site of British Major General Edward Braddock, who was fatally wounded in the French and Indian War. He died on July 9, 1755 – a few days after being shot during a battle with the French. George Washington officiated at Braddock’s funeral on the road that the British had been building westward. Washington’s soldiers marched on Braddock’s grave in an effort to conceal it from the French or their Native American allies. In the early 1800s, workers found some of Braddock’s remains; those remains were later moved to a knoll a short distance from the road and a marker was erected there commemorating Braddock. Location: National Pike, Farmington, 2 miles west of Fort Necessity.
Jumonville Glen (near Farmington)
A few miles from Fort Necessity is Jumonville Glen, a hilly area where the first shots of the French and Indian War were fired. Young George Washington’s troops attacked French troops camped here in May 1754. During that skirmish, the French commander Joseph Coulon de Jumonville was killed by Native Americans who were allied with the British contingent.
Later, the French retaliated by attacking the British, led by Washington, and defeated them at Fort Necessity. At Fort Necessity, Washington signed the surrender document that the victors wrote in French. By signing it, Washington unknowingly admitted to assassinating Jumonville. This later became known as the Jumonville Affair.
Today, visitors enjoy the trails (several trails can be combined to make a loop) and the views, with informational signs along the way. Location: 998-986 Old Braddock Rd, Hopwood; about 7 miles from Fort Necessity.
Christian W. Klay Winery (near Farmington)
Christian W. Klay Winery’s setting drew me in, but the wine and relaxation it offered after a busy day soaking up history made me savor the experience. They offer a variety of whites and reds, plus an outdoor space with tables and chairs. Christian W. Klay is one of eight wineries along the Southwest Passage Wine Trail. Location: 412 Fayette Springs Rd, Chalkhill. It’s 3 miles west of Fort Necessity along Route 40/National Pike.
Fallingwater (Mill Run)
About 70 miles southeast of Pittsburgh sits Fallingwater, the iconic 5,330-square-foot home that Frank Lloyd Wright designed for the Kauffman family, owners of a large Pittsburgh department store, in the 1930s. It was their weekend retreat. The home exemplifies Frank Lloyd Wright’s belief that a building’s architecture should live in harmony with the nature that surrounds it. The home cantilevers over a waterfall, and steps lead from the living area down to the stream below. Those are just two of the unique features of this UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Fortunately for the rest of the world, this home is open to the public. A few years after Mr. Kauffman’s death, his son (who had inherited the property) turned the property and some surrounding acreage to the Western Pennsylvania Conservancy. Today the Conservancy’s Bear Run Nature Reserve totals more than 5,000 acres and is a haven for hiking, camping, fishing, and hunting.
Visiting Fallingwater
To tour Fallingwater (a must-see!), book your reservation online well in advance of your planned visit, as this is a very popular site. If you can’t get tickets for a guided architectural tour, you can get a grounds pass that lets you walk around the outside of the home and the surrounding areas. In any case, be sure to walk up to the overlook for an impressive view of the home. A couple of trails lead from the house to the Youghiogheny River and gorge. The visitor center has a gift shop and cafe. Location:1491 Mill Run Rd, Mill Run
Kentuck Knob (Chalk Hill)
Less than 7 miles from Fallingwater, Kentuck Knob is a 2,200-square-foot hexagonal one-story home designed by Frank Lloyd Wright in the early 1950s. The Hagans, who owned the land and whose company produced Hagan ice cream, a local treat, were quite familiar with Fallingwater since the Hagans and the Kauffmans were good friends. So they entrusted Frank Lloyd Wright with the design of their new home that sits just below a hilltop ringed by trees. The Hagans lived there for about 30 years. After that, Kentuck Knob was sold to a British couple who added sculptures to the grounds and incorporated public tours.
Visiting Kentuck Knob
Book your online reservations for guided house tours ahead of your planned arrival. The tours help explain Frank Lloyd Wright’s philosophy on residential architecture, and they’re quite interesting. Afterward, take time to soak in the impressive view of the Youghiogheny River Gorge from beyond the home, and enjoy a walk along the wooded paths and sculpture garden. End your visit at the visitor center for some delicious Hagan ice cream and to browse the gift shop. Location: 723 Kentuck Road, Chalk Hill
Ohiopyle State Park (Ohiopyle)
Close to Fallingwater and Kentuck Knob, the huge Ohiopyle State Park – all 20,000+ acres of it – has over 25 miles of hiking and biking trails (including some on the Great Allegheny Passage), fishing, picnicking, horseback riding, whitewater rafting, camping, plus snowmobiling and cross-country skiing. That covers just about everyone’s outdoor interests!
The Youghiogheny River passes through the park and provides amazing views and whitewater rafting opportunities. The park also has outlooks and picnic areas throughout. Scenic spots (many with waterfalls) include Baughman Rock, Cascades Waterfall, Cucumber Falls, Meadow Run Waterslides, and an outlook by the Tharp Knob picnic area.
Fort Ligonier (Ligonier)
Constructed in 1758, Fort Ligonier was a British fortification along the newly formed road across Pennsylvania to what would become Pittsburgh. The impressive full-scale reconstruction of the fort that stands today is staged as it was when it was in use. The buildings include barracks, an officers’ mess, a commissary, and an underground magazine. Visitors enter Fort Ligonier through a building that boasts an art gallery and a museum with artifacts from on-site archaeological discoveries. Location: 200 S Market St, Ligonier
Flight 93 Memorial (Stoystown)
The Flight 93 Memorial commemorates the passengers and crew on United Flight 93 who lost their lives when their plane crashed into an open field in southwestern Pennsylvania on September 11, 2001. Flight 93 was one of the four passenger planes that were hijacked that day. A group of the plane’s passengers decided to take action and try to take control of the plane from the hijackers. The plane eventually crashed into this field about 65 miles southeast of Pittsburgh.
At the memorial are several moving remembrances to those who died here: The Tower of Voices is a 93-foot-tall structure holding 40 wind chimes (one for each passenger and crew member); the Visitor Center Complex has exhibits, artifacts, and a viewing platform in line with the flight path; and Memorial Plaza includes the Wall of Names (listing passengers and crew on large marble panels), the boulder marking the impact site, and a hemlock grove. Location: 6424 Lincoln Hwy, Stoystown
Johnstown Flood National Memorial (South Fork)
Life changed in an instant for everyone in the region on May 31, 1889, when the swollen waters of Lake Conemaugh breached the South Fork Dam on high ground. It had been raining heavily for days, and the dam’s earthen fortifications collapsed, sending 20 million tons of water rushing down along the Little Conemaugh River to the town of Johnstown – killing over 2,200 people. Today, a visitor center with a film and exhibits brings that horrific day to life. Outside, a short drive downhill, are the dam’s north and south ends, with viewing areas.
The Johnstown Flood National Memorial was an interesting site to visit (mainly because of the 35-minute film), but there wasn’t much to see outside. If you can’t visit the Johnstown Flood National Memorial but want to learn more, I recommend reading historian David McCullough’s riveting retelling of this tragic event in The Johnstown Flood. Location: 733 Lake Rd, South Fork
Map
Itinerary Ideas
My husband and I squeezed a lot into our 7-day southwestern Pennsylvania journey: four national park sites, two architectural icons, several interesting museums, an expansive state park with great trails, a winery, and more. We had so much to see that our days were busy. The best time to plan a similar trip is late spring through early fall, when you can take advantage of long days and comfortable temperatures.
My Suggested Route
Here’s a good route if you’re visiting all the sites mentioned in this article. If your time is limited, though, consider focusing on Pittsburgh or visiting some sites (listed below) clustered together by day. They’re arranged to be geographically close.
Day 1-3: Pittsburgh.
Day 4: Drive south to Friendship Hill National Historic Site, the home of Albert Gallatin who served in several influential capacities in the early U.S. presidential administrations plus nine miles of woodland trails and a picnic area. From there, head east for visits to Fort Necessity (and its associated sites: Mount Washington Tavern, Braddock’s Grave, and Jumonville Glen); and if you’d enjoy a sip of local wine, consider Christian W. Klay winery — all doable in one day.
Day 5-6: The next three sites are close to each other: Fallingwater and Kentuck Knob (two homes designed by Frank Lloyd Wright), and the expansive Ohiopyle State Park, with 79 miles of trails.
Day 7: A day with a bit more driving: Fort Ligonier and the Flight 93 Memorial. (You could add a stop to the Johnston Flood National Memorial, but I’d suggest it only if it’s high on your list of historical sites to visit.)
Where We Stayed and Ate
In Pittsburgh, my husband and I stayed at the conveniently located Hampton Inn in the Strip District, just beyond downtown, because it was close to the places we wanted to visit. It’s across the street from the John Heinz History Center and steps from the riverside Three Rivers Heritage Trail, which leads you westward to Point State Park.
Another time, we walked from the hotel across the David McCullough Bridge to some interesting sites on the north side of town. We also took advantage of the Hop On, Hop Off bus, which stops across from the Hampton Inn at the John Heinz History Center. We liked the laid-back vibe of the Strip District and its variety of dining options—especially Roland’s Seafood Grill, Kaya, Cafe Raymond, and Little Bangkok. All were a relaxing walk from the hotel.
For the rest of our trip, we stayed at the Historic Summit Inn because of its location close to other attractions southeast of Pittsburgh. Although the location was perfect for us, we found the property to be quite dated. Nearby Uniontown has some good restaurants, including Titlow Tavern and Grille.
Other Pennsylvania Attractions
If you’re on the other side of the state, in its most populous city, consider a self-guided walking tour of Philadelphia’s historic district. Aside from walking in the footsteps of the country’s forefathers, there are plenty of other things to enjoy in Philadelphia, including a visit to the impressive Museum of the American Revolution.
Also consider these great places to visit in Pennsylvania:
- Bushkill Falls, Poconos
- Colonial PA Plantation, outside Philadelphia
- Covered Bridges of Bucks County
- Covered Bridges of the Lehigh Valley
- Gettysburg Visitor Guide
- Hawk Mountain Sanctuary, Lehigh Valley
- Hickory Run State Park, Poconos
- Housenick Park, Lehigh Valley
- Jacobsburg State Park, Poconos area
- Museum of the American Revolution, Philadelphia
- National Museum of Industrial History, Lehigh Valley
- Best Things to Do in Philadelphia
- Philadelphia: Fairmount Park’s Unique Colonial Mansions & Their Stories
- Philadelphia Self-Guided Walking Tour
- Promised Land State Park, Poconos
- Ricketts Glen State Park, Poconos
- Ridley Creek State Park, outside Philadelphia
- Tyler State Park, Bucks County
- Valley Forge National Historical Park, outside Philadelphia
- Washington Crossing Historic Park, outside Philadelphia
Final Thoughts
My husband and I have visited Pittsburgh several times over the years. On this trip, we added spots beyond the city. As history buffs, we really enjoyed exploring sites steeped in American history – places most people just read about: the conflicts at Jumonville Glen and Fort Necessity that sparked the French and Indian War; Fort Ligonier, where the British built an extensive fort to support the needs of its army as it marched westward towards the Forks of the Ohio River – that hotly contested and prized locale; Fallingwater and Kentuck Knob, where Frank Lloyd Wright put his distinctive architectural stamp on homes in the 1930s and 1950s; and the Flight 93 Memorial. We also had fun hiking the trails and taking in the vistas at Ohiopyle State Park. So much to explore!
Comments?
Feel free to leave a comment if you’d like to share your experiences at any of the places mentioned in this article or if you have additional suggestions for travelers to southwestern Pennsylvania. Thanks! 🙂
